

Betanzos, Galicia: Where History Walks with the Pilgrims
In the lush heart of Galicia, wrapped around a bend in the Mandeo River, stands Betanzos—a medieval jewel seemingly frozen in time. With its cobbled streets, gothic churches, and legendary cuisine, this Galician town doesn’t just tell stories—it whispers them to those who travel slowly enough to listen.
A Key Stop on the English Way
Betanzos is more than a charming town—it’s a major stop along the English Way (Camino Inglés) to Santiago de Compostela. After crossing coastal landscapes from Ferrol and passing through Pontedeume, pilgrims arrive in Betanzos in search of rest, culture, and, of course, a famously rich tortilla.
What to See: Stone, Spirit, and Timeless Charm
- Old Town: A designated historic-artistic site, its maze of alleys is lined with ancestral homes, iron balconies, and stone coats of arms.
- Church of San Francisco: A solemn Gothic structure housing the tombs of the powerful Andrade family, local lords in medieval Galicia.
- Church of Santa María do Azougue: Facing the main square, this Gothic gem is noted for its sculptural details and historic resonance.
- Pasatempo Park: Created by the García Naveira brothers in the 19th century, this encyclopedic and allegorical park features grottoes, reliefs, and mysterious corners—a dreamlike journey through time and imagination.
- Old Bridge over the Mandeo River: Best crossed at dawn, when the mist still kisses the water. A moment to be remembered.
The Flavours of Betanzos: Where Tortilla Reigns
In Betanzos, tortilla is not just a dish—it’s an identity. The signature version is made without onion and cooked so delicately that its interior remains creamy, almost liquid. Sample it at local favourites like Mesón O Pote or Casa Miranda.
Other culinary delights not to miss:
- Galician empanada, filled with scallops, cod, or tuna
- Traditional Galician tripe stew, perfect after a long walk
- Local Ribeiro or Albariño wine, an ideal pairing for an evening meal overlooking the old town
Did You Know?
- Betanzos was once one of the seven capitals of the ancient Kingdom of Galicia.
- Pasatempo Park is considered one of Europe’s first theme parks, complete with sculpted scenes from Egypt, China, and the Americas.
- During the festival of San Roque each August, a massive paper balloon is handcrafted and released into the night sky—a glowing tribute to tradition.
A Pilgrim’s Refuge
For those walking the English Way, Betanzos is far more than a checkpoint. It is a cultural haven, a table full of flavour, and a reminder that in Galicia, you don’t just walk the path—you live it.