The Inca Trail: A Relaxed Backpacker’s Guide from London

1. The route I would recommend

London → Lima → Cusco → Pisac → Urubamba → Ollantaytambo → Huilloc or Patacancha → Classic Inca Trail → Machu Picchu → Cusco → Lima → London

2. Which Inca Trail should you choose?

3. Permits: the important bit

You cannot legally walk the official Inca Trail completely independently. You must book through an authorised operator with an official guide.

Permits are linked to your name and passport number. Use the same passport for the booking, the trek and your Machu Picchu entry. If your passport changes, tell the operator well before travelling and carry evidence of the previous passport details.

• The trail normally closes during February for maintenance.
• Popular dates can sell out many months ahead.
• For April, May, September or October, book around six to nine months in advance.
• Always confirm exactly which Machu Picchu circuit is included.

4. Getting there from London

London to Lima

Most journeys involve one change, commonly in Madrid, Paris, Amsterdam or Bogotá. A connection through the United States can also appear, but that brings extra transit and entry requirements.

A sensible return fare is often somewhere around £650 to £950, although school holidays and peak season can push it higher.

Lima airport to the city

Lima to Cusco

Flying is the practical choice. The flight takes roughly 90 minutes. Budget airlines can be inexpensive, but check baggage allowances carefully.

The direct bus can take more than 20 hours. It may suit a longer overland trip through Paracas or Arequipa, but I would not take it immediately before a high-altitude trek.

5. A relaxed 17-day itinerary

6. What you will see on the Inca Trail

7. History, mysteries and curious facts

The Qhapaq Ñan

The Inca road network connected a vast section of the Andes. It carried messengers, armies, officials, pilgrims, llama caravans and agricultural products across difficult mountain terrain.

The chasquis

Chasquis were relay runners who carried spoken messages, objects and quipus between stations. Information could travel remarkably quickly without horses, cars or modern communications.

Stonework and earthquakes

Important Inca buildings were made with carefully shaped stones fitted together without modern cement. Their flexible joints performed better in earthquakes than many rigid colonial structures.

Mountains were not just scenery

In Andean belief, powerful mountains are often understood as apus, spiritual presences connected with protection, water, weather and local identity.

Machu Picchu was never truly “lost”

Local families already knew about the site. Hiram Bingham was guided there by residents and later helped publicise it internationally. The exact purpose of Machu Picchu and the reasons it was abandoned are still debated.

8. Best time to go with fewer crowds

9. Approximate cost

A realistic total is around £1,750 to £2,700 per person.

Do not automatically choose the cheapest trekking company. A suspiciously low price may mean poor equipment, oversized groups, hidden extras or unfair conditions for porters.

10. Local food worth trying

11. Where to eat beyond the tourist circuit

Cusco

Try Wanchaq market for breakfast, fruit and inexpensive meals. San Jerónimo is a good area for traditional picanterías and regional dishes.

Pisac

Walk away from the handicraft square and look for simple family-run restaurants near the food market.

Urubamba

The municipal market is a useful lunch stop when travelling by colectivo through the Sacred Valley.

Ollantaytambo

Eat in the market or on side streets away from the main square. Prices are often lower and the atmosphere is more local.

12. Culture, religion and local life

Catholicism remains the most widespread religion in Peru, with evangelical churches also playing a significant role. In the Andes, religious life often blends Christian traditions with older beliefs involving the Pachamama, sacred mountains, agricultural rituals and local saints.

This mixture is known as religious syncretism. A Catholic procession may exist alongside offerings to the earth or respect for mountain spirits without local people seeing any contradiction.

How are local people with visitors?

You cannot describe an entire region with one personality, but people in Cusco and the Sacred Valley are very used to tourism. In highly visited areas, interactions can feel commercial. In rural communities, people may be more reserved, especially when Quechua is their first language.

A friendly greeting, a little Spanish and genuine curiosity normally work much better than arriving, pointing a camera and leaving.

13. Local manners and responsible travel

• Say hello before asking a question.
• Ask permission before photographing anyone.
• Never photograph children without a parent or guardian agreeing.
• Do not hand money to children in exchange for photos.
• Buy crafts directly from the people who make them when possible.
• Do not treat Pachamama ceremonies as entertainment.
• Do not enter homes, fields or community spaces without asking.
• Keep bargaining polite and reasonable.
• Take all rubbish with you.
• Ask before using a drone. Drones are not permitted inside Machu Picchu.

A useful phrase is: “¿Puedo tomarle una fotografía?” — “May I take your photograph?”

14. What to wear and pack

Wear boots or trail shoes with reliable grip, but do not bring brand-new footwear. Break it in well before the trip.

You can normally rent a sleeping bag in Cusco. A comfort rating around -5°C is a sensible choice for colder nights.

15. Photography at Machu Picchu

Machu Picchu has strict visitor rules. Tripods, monopods, selfie sticks, drones, large backpacks and equipment that blocks the paths are generally not allowed.

Bring a light camera body, a standard zoom, perhaps a small wide-angle lens, spare batteries and good rain protection. Heavy professional equipment can make the trail far less enjoyable.

16. Altitude and health

Spend at least three full nights in the Cusco and Sacred Valley region before starting the trek. Four or five days is even better.

Walk slowly, drink regularly, avoid alcohol and tell your guide if you feel unwell. Confusion, difficulty walking in a straight line, severe breathlessness at rest or rapidly worsening symptoms require urgent medical attention and descent.

Your travel insurance must specifically cover trekking above 4,000 metres, evacuation, medical treatment and trip interruption.

17. Safety

• Do not display large amounts of cash.
• Use cash machines inside banks or shopping centres.
• Keep digital copies of your passport and insurance.
• Split cards and money between different bags.
• Use official taxis or recognised apps.
• Watch your phone carefully in markets, terminals and busy streets.
• Avoid empty streets late at night.
• Keep a spare day before your international flight.

Strikes, demonstrations and roadblocks can occasionally disrupt trains, roads and domestic flights, so flexibility is part of travelling in Peru.

18. Choosing an Inca Trail company

Before paying, ask for all of the following in writing:

• Confirmation that the company is authorised.
• The maximum group size.
• The exact Machu Picchu circuit included.
• Whether permits and entrance tickets are included.
• The return train time and class.
• Whether a hotel is included in Aguas Calientes.
• Your porter weight allowance.
• Porter pay, insurance and working conditions.
• Sleeping bag, mat and pole rental prices.
• Dietary options.
• The cancellation policy.
• Suggested tips.
• Whether tents are shared or private.
• Whether the guide carries oxygen and a first-aid kit.
• The emergency evacuation plan.
• The intended campsite each night.

19. Authentic things to do in your free time