Hiking Hampstead Heath: The Complete Guide
320 hectares of woods, meadows and ponds, a skyline view protected by law, and a free 18th-century mansion at the top. Everything you need to walk the Heath properly — the best circular route, how to get there, and where to find a coffee, a toilet and a swim.
Route at a glance
Why walk the Heath
Most London parks are polite. The Heath is not. It is scruffy in the best way: ancient woodland, unmowed meadows, dog walkers, swimmers in December, kite flyers on the ridge. It has been public land since the Hampstead Heath Act of 1871, the woods are protected as a Site of Special Scientific Interest, and in 2021 it was designated an Urban Quiet Park — which tells you most of what you need to know about how it feels once you are ten minutes in.
It is also the easiest real walk in London. You can be standing on Parliament Hill, 98 m up with the whole city in front of you, twenty-five minutes after leaving the centre. No car, no early start, no planning.
The classic circular route, step by step
The Heath is a maze on purpose, and almost everyone gets turned around the first time. This loop links the best of it and brings you back to where you started.
- Hampstead Heath station to the Hampstead PondsCome out of the station, cross South End Green and enter the Heath. Follow the chain of ponds north with the water on your right.
- Up to Parliament HillBear left and climb the open grass slope. This is the only real effort of the day and it takes about eight minutes. Stop at the top.
- Across to the Highgate PondsDrop off the north side of the hill and head east through the trees, passing the Men's Pond and the wildlife ponds.
- North into KenwoodEnter the Kenwood estate and follow the lake path up to the house. Free entry, and the terrace behind it is the best picnic spot on the Heath.
- West through the woodsLeave Kenwood by the western gate and cut through the oldest woodland on the Heath towards Whitestone Pond and the top of the Hampstead ridge.
- The Hill Garden and PergolaA short detour onto West Heath. Almost nobody finds this by accident, which is exactly why you should go.
- Back down through Hampstead villageDrop into the village for a pub or a coffee, then head down Downshire Hill.
- Return to South End GreenBack where you started, roughly three hours after you left.
Want the longer version? Add Golders Hill Park and the West Heath sandy paths on the far side, which takes the total to about 6.5 miles (10.5 km).
The places worth stopping for
Parliament Hill
At 98 m, one of the highest points in London. The view is legally protected, so St Paul's, the Palace of Westminster, the Gherkin and the Shard can never be built out. Best light late afternoon, fewest people early morning.
Kenwood House
A Robert Adam mansion in 112 acres of Humphry Repton parkland, with Rembrandt, Vermeer and Gainsborough on the walls. Free entry, open daily 10am to 5pm (last entry 4.30pm), with a café and a secondhand bookshop.
The bathing ponds and Lido
Three bathing ponds plus Parliament Hill Lido, a 60 m unheated pool. Open all year, Christmas Day included. Around £5 adult and £3 concession in 2026, with time-based pricing at the Lido in summer.
The Hill Garden and Pergola
An Edwardian raised walkway built for Lord Leverhulme, half-swallowed by wisteria and climbing roses. The most photographed corner of the Heath, and still somehow a secret. Seasonal hours, closed in high winds.
The woods and meadows
Oak and hornbeam that predate the city around them. Watch for woodpeckers, jays and ring-necked parakeets, and for herons and kingfishers on the water. Over 25 ponds, most fed by the buried River Fleet.
Golders Hill Park
Formal gardens, a butterfly house and a small free zoo on the north-west edge. A good bolt-on if you are walking with children.
Getting there
By train — the easiest option
Hampstead Heath station on the London Overground Mildmay line drops you at South End Green, two minutes from the Heath and right at the start of this route.
Gospel Oak is the alternative and puts you next to Parliament Hill Fields.
By Tube
Hampstead on the Northern line, the deepest station on the network, is about a 10-minute walk to the western side and handy if you want to start from the village.
Golders Green on the Northern line is closest to Golders Hill Park and the Pergola.
By bus
Routes 24, 46, 168, 210, 214, 268 and C11 all stop at or near a Heath entrance. The 210 runs along Hampstead Lane past the Kenwood gates, which is useful if you want a one-way walk. Check TfL for live routes before travelling.
By car
Not recommended. Street parking is heavily restricted and the small car parks, including Jack Straw's near the Pergola, fill early at weekends. Public transport is faster and lets you finish somewhere different from where you started.
When to go
Spring
Bluebells in the woods, wisteria on the Pergola, the ponds coming back to life. The best all-round season.
Summer
Long evenings, swimming, and outdoor concerts on the Kenwood lawn. Also the busiest, so start before 10am.
Autumn
The woodland colour is worth the trip on its own, and the crowds thin out sharply after half term.
Winter
Bare trees mean the clearest skyline views of the year. Expect deep mud, and remember the light goes by 4pm.
Whatever the season, weekday mornings are quiet. Sunday afternoons on Parliament Hill are not.
What to bring
- Footwear with grip. Trail shoes or walking boots. The clay paths hold water for days after rain and trainers will not enjoy it.
- A waterproof layer. There is very little shelter on the open ground between the ponds and the ridge.
- Navigation. Download the route to your phone or pick up a Heath map. The paths fork constantly and signage is limited.
- Water and a snack. There are cafés, but also long stretches with nothing.
- A towel if there is any chance you will end up in a pond. There usually is.
Facilities on the Heath
- Toilets: Parliament Hill Fields, Kenwood, Golders Hill Park and the Lido.
- Cafés: Parliament Hill Fields café, the Brew House at Kenwood, the Golders Hill Park refreshment house, plus the pubs of Hampstead village.
- Playgrounds and paddling pool: at Parliament Hill Fields and Golders Hill Park.
- Sports: athletics track, tennis courts, and the Heath's famous cross-country course.
Accessibility, families and dogs
The surfaced paths around Parliament Hill Fields, the Highgate Ponds and the Kenwood estate suit pushchairs and, in dry conditions, most wheelchairs. The woodland and West Heath sections do not: they are unsurfaced, uneven and steep in places. Dogs are welcome across the Heath — it is one of the great dog-walking grounds in Britain — but keep them under control near the wildlife ponds and livestock areas.
Important safety note
The Heath is safe, but it is big and it is genuinely easy to lose your bearings in the woods. Carry a charged phone, tell someone your plan if you are walking alone, and be aware that the unlit paths are best avoided after dark.
Only swim at the supervised ponds and the Lido during staffed hours. The other ponds are wildlife reserves and swimming in them is not permitted. Water temperatures drop below 5 degrees Celsius in winter, so build up to cold-water swimming gradually rather than jumping straight in.
Events and things to do
- Outdoor concerts and theatre on the lawn at Kenwood through the summer
- Guided conservation walks and volunteering days run by the City of London and Heath Hands
- Parliament Hill parkrun every Saturday morning
- Kite flying on the ridge, a Heath tradition on any windy weekend
- Group hikes with Hiking in London, most weekends of the year
Frequently asked questions
How long does it take to walk around Hampstead Heath?
Is Hampstead Heath hard to walk?
Do I need to pay to enter?
Which station is closest?
Can I swim there?
Is it good for beginners?
Do not walk it alone — walk it with us
We run guided group walks across the Heath and beyond, all year round. Good company, a route you do not have to navigate, and no chance of getting lost in the woods.
Opening times, prices and transport details change. Please check the City of London and English Heritage websites before setting out.
This article is proudly sponsored by AllTrails.
